A Very Good Day

The Changing of the Guards at Kungligaslottet


Gamla stan

Stadshuset, As Seen From Riddarholmen, 2010


ABBA on Riddarholmen, 1977


I didn't sleep very well last night. I had told myself that I would get to bed early, but I ended up reading the ABBA Guide to Stockholm until 11:00. I fell asleep fairly quickly, even though there was still light in the sky at that time. I woke up at 1:00 and had a hard time falling asleep again. I noticed there was still light in the sky then. I awoke again around 3:00, and I think the sun was starting to rise then, so I closed my curtains and managed to sleep until 8:00 this morning. I was tired when the reception called for my wake up call, but I showered, got dressed and went to get breakfast.

This morning, I still avoided the milky yogurt, herring mustard and shrimp in mayo. My stomach is a little better, but still not entirely OK yet. I feasted on the pancakes with Queen jam again this morning and had a couple of slices of watermelon.

As I was showering this morning, it suddenly dawned on me: I have a 400 dollar limit per transaction on my bank card. Yesterday, when my card didn´t work, I was trying to take out 3000 kronor (= 422 Canadian dollars), and I figured that was the reason my debit card would not work. As for the credit card, when I got a computer virus three months ago, they told me at the bank that I should change my Visa code to avoid identity theft. I changed the code, and apparently can´t remember now what I changed it to... So this morning, I headed to the ATM, and sure enough, I had no problem taking out less than 400 Canadian dollars. I would still need to check with a banker about the Visa, but I figured I would wait until after lunch. That way, if it was early afternoon here and they needed to contact my bank in Canada, it would be early morning in Ottawa and the bank would be open. Now that I had access to cash again, I did not feel the urgency in getting my Visa card settled.

So, at 9:30 this morning, I started walking to the north of the island of Södermalm, where I am staying. I had my iPod on, and was listening to my favourite Swedish-language Agnetha Fältskog songs, with my map of Stockholm and my ABBA Guide book with me. Since it was a fairly nice day (they were calling for a high of 17, with no chance of rain, even though it was very cloudy), I decided to start my ABBA pilgrimage. The first spot I wanted to check was the house that appears on the back cover of Agnetha´s 1975 solo album, Elva kvinnor i ett hus. As I was climbing the hill to get to the house, I noticed a group of tourists standing there with a guide. I thought they were probably doing some sort of ABBA tour. But as it turns out, when I got to that street, I noticed it was Bellmansgatan, the street where Stieg Larsson´s fictional detective Mikael Blomkvist lives. They were doing the Millenium tour, which I am hoping to join later this week.

I took the picture of the house I was looking for, and then decided that I would try to find the Rival hotel, which is located somewhere near there. I decided that I will now officially never join "The Amazing Race", because not only do I not have a good sense of direction, but I even have problems reading a map. I eventually did find the Rival hotel and went in to get a bottle of lemon-flavoured water and rest a bit. The Rival hotel was opened by Benny Andersson in 2003, and he is apparently often seen here. Two years ago, the Swedish premiere of the movie "Mamma Mia!" was held here, and Frida and Agnetha danced with Meryl Streep on the red carpet in front of the hotel. It was also the first time in many, many years that all four members of ABBA posed together, on the first floor balcony. I now have a picture of the hotel and of the Thor fountain in front of it.

After having my water, and not spotting Benny (surprise, surprise), I decided to make my way north, across the Slussen (the locks of the canal) and onto the island where Gamla Stan (the Old Town) is located. On my way there, I took a picture of the building that houses both the Dagens Nyheter and the Expressen newspapers, which was featured in the Millenium movies. The Slussen was also where the opening shots of the ABBA video "Money, Money, Money" were also shot, so I got a picture of that too.

While in Gamla Stan, I was surprised to discover that my timing was perfect: I got to Kungligaslottet (the Royal Palace) just in time for the changing of the guards. They were on horse back and played the Swedish national anthem on brass instruments and drums. Apparently, Kungligaslottet is only partly open to tourists, and the highlight of the palace, the royal apartments, are closed for the royal wedding. Hans said yesterday that if this is the case, the castle is not really worth visiting.

It took me a little while to find Stortorget (the Large Square), where the four members of ABBA were photographed in a famous picture in 1975, but I eventually found it. I stood exactly where Agnetha stood in that shot, and took a picture of my foot near the grate where Björn was standing. From there, it was only a short distance to the narrow street that Björn shows us in the CNN video he made about his city. I took a picture of this too, then discovered a small CD shop where I bought Agnetha´s disc "13 Hits", as well as her recent compilation, "My Very Best". It seemed to me that the gifts in the gift shops on Gamla Stan were exceedingly expensive, so I will try to get souvenirs and postcards elsewhere in the city.

A short distance from here, I found the flat that Benny and Frida lived in after 1975. Scenes from their 1977 National commercial in Australia were actually filmed here and on a bench across the street from their house, which is still there. So, I have pictures of these as well. I am glad that I am only picking and choosing selected sites to visit: I wouldn´t want people to think that I am an obsessed fan or anything...

As I was making my way west of Gamla Stan, to the island of Riddarholmen, I noticed a poster for a production of "Mio, min Mio", featuring the music of Benny, but it will only be playing in July. And I saw the poster for the new Swedish-language production of the musical "Mamma Mia!", but that only takes place in October. As I was crossing Storbron, I took pictures of that bridge, because Frida is shown driving down that stretch of road in "Money, Money, Money".

As soon as I got to Riddarholmen, I recognized the building and the gate that appear in Agnetha´s video for "I Wasn´t the One (Who Said Goodbye)". I checked the ABBA guide, and sure enough, that´s where they were, so I took more pictures. And when I got to Evert Taubes terrassen on Riddarholmen, I was surprised to discover that ABBA had actually shot two promotional pictures from this spot: the inner sleeve photo from the ABBA The Album LP, and a promotional photo for Lois jeans. Very, very cool.

With that, I finished visiting the ABBA-related sights on Södermalm, Gamla Stan and Riddarholmen. I decided to stop for a well-deserved smårgös (sandwich), a lemon pastry and a bottle of water at a small cafe near the Slussen. It was about 2:00 p.m. then, so I was getting hungry. After lunch, I walked all the way back to my hotel in Södermalm. I knew there was a bank opposite the street, and I really wanted to get the whole credit card thing sorted out. (And I was suddenly very nervous again thinking about it). When I went in, I took a number (no. 53) and patiently waited my turn (they were only at 38). When I got there I said "Jag har en problem, och jag höppas att du kan hjälpa mig. Talar du franska eller engelska?" (I have a problem and I hope you can help me. Do you speak French or English?), and I discovered that she didn´t speak either, but she directed me to the next teller who spoke English. Anyway, it turns out that if I have ID on me (like my passport), I don´t have to enter a code when I use my credit card. It was like a huge weight lifted off of me. I have now settled all of my temporary problems with accessing money, and I can now relax a bit now. After this adventure, I got back to the hotel here to write all of this down. It is close to 6:00 p.m. now, so I think I will check out my guide book to see where I should have dinner tonight. I feel like having Svenskköttbullar med potatis (Swedish meatballs with potatoes), so I will try to see which restaurant my guide recommends I try.

That´s all for now.

Skål ! (Cheers!)

M.